With all the glitz and glamour of London Fashion Week, it is easy to forget about our Capitals other fashion week - The Alternative Fashion Week starting today (21st of April) being held at London’s iconic not to mention trendy, Spitalfields Market.

The Alternative Fashion Week is an eclectic collection of young, up and coming designers all aiming to display their skills and designs at the east London event. Not only are there daily fashion shows, but like London Fashion Week there are stalls and events for visitors to view / buy the wares and meet some of the designers themselves.

Previous AFW’s have helped to propel the likes of Gareth Pugh and Jasper Garvida into the limelight and in turn onto the catwalks of LFW – So make a date and head down to Spitalfields this week and if you’re lucky, you may just bag your self a designer bargain of the future…
Alternative Fashion Week is at Spitalfields Traders Market, Crispin Place, Brushfield St, London E1 21-25 April.

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Last season’s prestigious Fashion Fringe winners - chosen by the likes of Colin McDowell, Natalie Massemet and Tom Ford - Maki Aminaka and Marcus Wilmont presented their first on-schedule show at London Fashion Week on Friday morning.

Eye-stinging laser red graphics signaled the start of the show, inspired as the designers were by the 1980’s film Tron. From 2D to 3D – in essence this was a truly mature collection both in the sense of creativity and commerce. There was nothing shown that could not be loved by press and buyers – although we know they have very different agendas. Press pieces included the immaculate Tron helmets, which became more extravagant as the show progressed, the red silk dress with the now familiar bold graphics in relief across breastbone and shoulders – and lets not forget the silver paneling and black leather jackets. For buyers essential pieces must have been the grey trapeze dresses with winged shoulders, essential black flared trousers and immaculately tailored blouses.

Importantly, artistic creation and commercial accessibility were one of the same in this collection - Colin McDowell sat front row smiling from ear to ear, knowing these fledgling designers were well on their way to achieving international success. A spontaneous cheer erupted from the crowd – hurrah indeed.

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Perched on the front row I had no expectations of this young designer - and was suitably appreciative of a solo violinist who opened the show and the maturity of Douglas’s collection. Apologies in advance for the blackberry images (who really need to up there game on the pixel front).

Form fitting, black satin dresses with capped chiffon and puffball sleeves, silk pencil skirts, leather bodice fitting jackets and wafts of white satin dresses with chiffon ruffles to the floor. Impeccably cut to accentuate and compliment the female figure, these clothes must translate to the sales floor to have any hope of financial success.

Accessorized by short black leather gloves, patent peaked caps and spike heeled boots there was an unmistakable tone of 40’s Berlin in the air. And was that a Lou Reed track I heard?

A collection of light and dark, black and oyster, classic and punk work well when seams are finished correctly, when make-up and hair compliment the clothes and when the vision of a designer is this focused.

A previous Fashion Fringe winner and having only shown on the BFC schedule since Feb 2007, there were concerns about the financing of this collection - I don’t know who stepped in at the last minute but I’m very glad they did.

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With her first showing in London in nine years, the Vivienne Westwood A/W 08 collection was always going to be a highlight of London Fashion Week.

A star studded audience of Cuba Gooding Jr, Kelly Osborne and Hilary Alexander, were treated to manic circus sounds as ’supermodel of the future’ Lily Donaldson opened the show. Frequently using her shows to get her messages across, Westwood used this opportunity to display her displeasure over the controversial Guantanamo Bay detainee camp, aboard placards.

An originator of punk, this collection showed no care for rules with military, disco, silk screen art and the 60’s as combined influences. Short, short dresses in russet browns and brick teamed with thigh high boots made for a sexy, striking look, whilst tartan skirts and trousers in blues, oranges and reds were certainly eye catching.

Accessories were as individual as their creator, with military style box caps, miniature purses, pvc studded belts and vintage inspired, cashmere floppy hats. Fabrics and patterning were married together in abundance with silk, dog-tooth, cashmere, tartan, wool, plaid, cotton, lace, crochet and lycra all used to dramatic effect.

Sublime craftsmanship coupled with over four decades of fashion expertise ensured that specifying highlights from this collection was not easy, however a cherry red, raw silk shift dress, a one-shouldered oyster and black lace dress and a simple yet stunning black mac certainly stood out.

Photography by Nick Stovey.

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There’s something to be said of a designer who can turn corrugated cardboard into a beautifully feminine garment. Packed to the max, Avsh Alom Gur’s show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was simply a pleasure to behold.

What wasn’t flowing like liquid chocolate was nipped in with masking tape, cardboard corsets or big chunky and bejewelled belts. The mocha, chocolate and creams were highlighted by the intense dark skin of the models, and the collection emphasised the designer’s point - that from what one might see as waste product, can be born an intensely beautiful creation.

Lino prints and a distinct African essence allowed an eclectic mix of rich earthy tones highlighted in ultra-soft and distinctively Avsh Alom Gur femininity.

Photography by Nick Stovey

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From the moment the first model strolled down the catwalk in a jet black off the shoulder dress and over-the-knee boots, we knew we were in for a treat. Ink black, pristine white, dove grey and Chanel beige layer upon layer flooded down the catwalk - peppered with their traditional love of emerald green, orange and red. Layer upon layer of jersey dresses, leggings and shirts made way for fur collars, embroidered breastplates and wide leather belts. Diaphanous silk capes with Kimono sleeves with white piping or large black buttons were the jewels in this crown and drew smiles from the audience.

There was something very traditional mixed up in this riot of 21st Century fabrics. Models exited the catwalk and circled the front row from left to right giving press and buyers that much needed close-up view, circa 1952.

Credit must also go to Darren Knight (Wig Magazine) who styled this collection intelligently with more than a nod to Chanel. Not only is this team creatively talented, they are also business smart - sponsored by Swarovski and already diversifying into a jewellery partnership with SHO, Steve J and Yoni P have all the makings of being caped crusaders – daring to make money in fashion.

Photography by Nick Stovey

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The eclectic tones of Coco Rosie were the perfect musical accompaniment to an eye-catching kaleidoscope of a show

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Inspired by disaffected Mid-Western Americana, (think disappointed show-girl) the Ashish A/W 08 collection displayed stunning shift dresses, shorts, trousers and circular cut out hole tops. This designer is part scientist and part child genius - only his technique with tiny shards of plastic can create a gown resplendent of rippling water. Confidence was key to this collection infused as it was with his much loved giant houndstooth check, splashes of orange tartan and candy colours.

Accessories played a huge part in the colourful, girlish collection with cherries and nipple tassels hanging from sweatshirts, quirky glasses and patchwork caps. Highlights of the show included a pink dogtooth shift dress, a woven tartan jumper and the white shoe-boots with built in lights that flashed energetically when the lights went down.

A new lattice weave appeared on Gupta’s catwalk this season on a simple almost Amish grey dress and a stunning black ruffled sleeved coat. Although known for his bright sequins and playfulness there is something afoot in the Ashish camp - hues of elegance and simplicity just seen if looking carefully - and Patti Wilson (uber stylist) and Sophie Ellis Baxter certainly were.

Photography by Nick Stovey

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Spotted: Some familiar brands exhibiting their A/W collections of accessories and handbags at London Fashion Week…

Domakaya

Blush B-lush

Les Nereides

Bracher Emden

Wilbur & Gussie

Photography by Nick Stovey

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The name on everyone’s lips today was none other than the Great Dane Jens Laugesen. This supremely talented designer has been showing at London Fashion Week since 2003, once a New Gen award winner and now a Fashion Forward name.

Known for his utilitarian style, Jens Laugesen’s collection consisted of the exceptionally sharp tailoring we have come to expect, with a touch more femininity in play with this show. Inspired by the ‘angular work’ of architect Zaha Hadid, androgyny was explored with crisp, ultra slim dinner jackets and suits - with a midnight blue skirt suit really catching the eye.

Fabrics of taffeta, silk and pvc, in a collection that was predominantly black and midnight blue, shone under the mega watt catwalk lights to evoke a sleek, urban look. Subtle patterning on some fabrics echoed his brush with a softer side.

Long leather gloves, tulip skirts and thin belts helped create a sharp silhouette, whilst exaggerated shoulders and necklines duly emphasised the architectural inspiration Jens Laugesen had drawn upon. All in all, it was an impressive show by a designer ready for greater financial success - price points might need a tweak and distribution tripled - it could all happen with this collection.

Jens Laugesen – a label to remember.

Photography by Nick Stovey

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To the clashing beats of DJ Goldierocks, the Nicola de Main show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout sauntered into action.

A 50’s inspired collection with big hair and even bigger lips accompanied an eclectic collection of pinafore dresses, jersey wrap dresses and bold belted coats.

There was specific attention to accessories with white tights, bows and over-sized glasses giving the collection a modern, quirky, office wear feel.

Fabrics were soft and light, with satins, flannels, silk and crushed velvet giving the collection a soft feminine tone, whilst the combination of bright contrasting colours of fire engine reds, oranges, pinks, blacks, greys and white kept the energy high.

Highlights from the collection included a funky floor length floral and bird print dress, a cherry red velvet bobbled coat and the Carmen Miranda-esque bows in the models hair.

Photographs by Nick Stovey.

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